Puppy Crochet-A-Long Part 1




Welcome to Part 1 of our Puppy CAL (crochet-a-long)! I'm so excited you're here and joining in to make a sweet little pup with us!

Today we will make the body and head which will be made as one piece. We will start with the nose so we have it have it ready to sew on before we close the head. As for sewing that's all we'll have to do today!
Feel free to add your own detail if you'd like some fun cheeks (like these) or eyelashes for a girl version!

If you are just learning about the CAL head over here to find out all the details, it's never too late to join in. Each part will remain free here on the blog so you can crochet at any pace.

Be sure to share your photos in the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook, we'd love to see your puppy! This is also a great place to ask any questions you have along the way!


Pattern


If you prefer to work with a printable copy you can find the full pattern (an ad-free PDF version) in my Etsy and Ravelry shop!


Some of you have shared that this will be your first CAL, yay! If you have any questions feel free to share them in the group or send me a message. I hope you enjoy making your own sweet pup!

If amigurumi is new to you, I have a Tips to Learning Amigurumi page that I think will come in handy. I've also brought over some of the main tips below as a refresher if needed!




If you're ready for Part 1 now, feel free to scroll down. Otherwise, keep reading and I'll go through the materials and how to get started with a magic circle and color changes!


This CAL will be split into 3 parts:

Part 1 - Friday, December 6th - Body and Head (this post here!)



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You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!


Materials You Will Need -

- Size 4 worsted weight yarn

150g yarn for the body ( I used Yarn Bee Denim in Color in Ivory)

Small amount of accent color for the nose, ears and paws (I used Yarn Bee Denim in Color in Taupe)

- 3.5 mm crochet hook (These are the hooks I use and love!)

- 12mm safety eyes

- 15mm safety nose

- Scissors

- Tapestry needle (Bent tips work wonders for amigurumi!)

- Stuffing

- Stitch markers

- Sewing Pins (these are super helpful when it comes time for sewing)


Optional Materials -

*If you are making your puppy for a young child under 3 I recommend skipping the weighted base as the pellets can be a hazard if they were to make their way through the stocking/stitches.*

If you would like your puppy to be weighted (this helps in balancing/stability in a sitting position) you will also want the following materials:

- Poly-pellets - approx. 1/2 - 1 cup

- Knee-high nylon (I found a package at Wal-Mart for 50 cents; if you are choosing a light colored yarn for your puppy you may want to also use a light colored nylon for your weight)

- Funnel (a rolled up piece of paper will also do the trick, this helps in filling the nylon with the small poly-pellets)

You can find a tutorial here for making a weighted base (I found it best to add the base after completing round 23).


Abbreviations (US terminology)


SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

Rep – Repeat

St(s) – Stitch(es)


(Below is a mini tutorial for making a magic circle and invisible decrease. Please note the photos are for reference and were taken from previous projects, the concept will be used for our CAL.)



Magic Circle


A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.

1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.

2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.

3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1.

4. You're magic circle is complete and ready to begin as pattern instructs (ex: if round says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop).

5. Pull your tail tight to close.




Invisible Decrease
This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease.

An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the next stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.

You're invisible decrease is done!




Ready to start? Here we go!


Part 1


Notes -

· Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in a continuous round; I recommend using a stitch marker at the beginning or end of each round.

· For this pattern the body and head will be made as one piece.

· You can find more tips for stuffing your amigurumi here!


Nose –

With accent color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Rounds 5-7: SC around (24)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert your safety nose just above the middle point. I placed mine between rounds 2 and 3.




Body-

With body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Rounds 9-15: SC around (48)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 17-18: SC around (42)

Round 19: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)

(If you are making a weighted base this is a great stopping point to add it in before the opening becomes too narrow. A tutorial to make your base can be found here.)
Round 25: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)

Round 28: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Rounds 29-30: SC around (18)

*We will now start the head*

Round 31: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (24)

Round 32: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 33: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 34: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 35: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 36: SC in the first 7 sts, SC INC in the next, rep around (54)

Rounds 37-45: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 42 and 43, 8 stitches apart. Optional: Add eyelashes/eyebrows to your liking.

Lastly, sew your nose centered between the eyes slowly stuffing as you go.




Round 46: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48)

Round 47: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42)

Round 48: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36)

Round 49: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30)

Round 50: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 51: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18)

Round 52: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12)

Round 53: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.


Part 1 is complete, I can't wait to see your puppies, feel free to share a progress picture with us in the group! I'll see you back on Monday with Part 2 where we'll make the arms and legs!

2 comments

  1. How can I print the pattern from the above pattern? Usually a pattern will have a note about
    print now. I don't want to sit in front of my computer while I crochet. Also you have indicated other patterns of yours are free but I don't understand how to print them. Help!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi! Unfortunately I'm not aware of a way to print from the blog, if you would like an ad-free PDF version I have them available in my Etsy shop below, I hope this helps!

    https://www.etsy.com/shop/GraceAndYarn

    ReplyDelete

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