Grace and Yarn

I can't believe we are already more than halfway through July which means we are at pattern #3 in our Christmas in July series.

I'm excited to introduce you to Patrick the Polar Bear! He is similar in size to Ray the Reindeer, about 13 inches tall and would make a great Christmas gift!

If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips page to help you get started!

Patrick's pattern calls for size 12mm plastic safety eyes, but if you plan to make this for an infant feel free to check out my tutorial for crochet thread eyes as an alternative!

The legs and body are made as one to save a little time on sewing. The ears are also doubled up for added strength to avoid floppiness! Add eyelashes or a bow to make a girl version!

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. Share your projects, get inspiration and ask questions as you go!

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later

- Get an ad-free printable version from my Etsy or Ravelry shop

You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Materials-

Size 4 worsted weight yarn

100g of white (I used I Love This Yarn)
25g sweater color (I used I Love This Yarn in Medium Blue)
Small amount of light grey for the ears
Small amount of black or dark grey yarn for the nose

3.5 mm crochet hook

12 mm safety eyes

Scissors and

Tapestry needle (these bent tips are my favorite for amigurumi!)

Stuffing (Morning Glory or Poly-Fil both work great!)

Stitch markers

(If you're curious, I've shared why these are my favorite materials here!)

Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

BLO – Back loop only

CH - Chain

This polar bear measures about 13 inches tall

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using white

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Rounds 11-23: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 24)

*Round 24 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 24: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start. (Example below of a leg join)

Rounds 25-29: SC around (42 SC) Change to sweater color

Rounds 30-43: SC around (42 SC)

Round 44: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 45: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 46: SC around (30 SC)

Change to white

Round 47: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 48-49: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Head-

With white

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note: Here is where we will add the eyes before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 6 stitches apart.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12 SC)

Round 26: INV DEC around (6 SC)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Stephanie

Welcome to the 2nd pattern in the Christmas in July series! If you missed Ray the Reindeer (our first pattern) you can still find his pattern here!

I'm excited to introduce you to Penn the Penguin! He is the perfect gift or stocking stuffer measuring in at 7 inches tall.

This pattern is also great for beginners and only uses a few stitches. To make this pattern you will want to be familiar with a magic circle, invisible decrease, and sewing on parts.

If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips page to help you get started! I go over each topic above in mini photo tutorials.

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. Share your projects, get inspiration and ask questions as you go!

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later

- An inexpensive ad-free printable version can be purchased in my Etsy or Ravelry shop

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Materials-

Size 4 worsted weight yarn

60g color of choice for body, head and wings
Small amount of

Black and white (eyes)
Yellow or orange (nose and feet)
Choice of color for the scarf

3.5 mm crochet hook

Scissors

Tapestry needle (I love the bent tips for amigurumi!)

Stuffing - PolyFil or Morning Glory both work great!

Stitch markers

Abbreviations-

US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

DC- Double crochet

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Body-

With color of choice

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Rounds 9-15: SC around (48 SC)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 17-18: SC around (42 SC)

Round 19: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Rounds 20-21: SC around (36 SC)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30 SC)

Round 25: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 26-27: SC around (24 SC)

*Note: If you are making the head and body a different color, complete round 27 with the same color as your head, this will make sewing more seamless with the different colors*

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Stephanie

Meet Ray the Reindeer! He loves the cold winter snow and eating leaves with good friends!

Growing up I was always fond of reindeer at Christmastime and it was the first animal to come to mind when brainstorming.

This is the first of four patterns that I'll be sharing on the blog for my Christmas in July series!

You can find # 2 here!

I try to make each pattern as easy to read as possible and loaded with photos to help along the way, making them great for beginners! To make this pattern you will want to be familiar with a magic circle, invisible decrease, and sewing on parts.

If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips and materials page to help you get started! I go over each topic above in mini photo tutorials.

Be sure to also join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. Share your projects, get inspiration and ask questions as you go!

In most of my patterns (like this one) I use plastic safety eyes, they are easy and fast to install. However, they are not recommended for children under 3.

If you are making this for a little one or don't have the size needed on hand, I recommend using my crochet thread eyes as an alternative!

Pattern

- PIN this pattern to your favorite board to save for later

- An inexpensive ad-free printable version can be purchased in my Etsy or Ravelry shop

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Materials:

Size 4 worsted weight yarn

120g of light brown (I used I Love This Yarn in Toasted Almond)
Small amount of

Dark brown
White
Red or black for the nose
Choice of color for the scarf

3.5 mm crochet hook (these are my favorites!)

12 mm safety eyes

Scissors and tapestry needle

Stuffing

Stitch markers

Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

Let's start crocheting!

Legs and Body-

Legs: Make 2 - Using light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rep around (30 SC)

Rounds 6-8: SC around (30 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 10: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Rounds 11-24: SC around (18 SC)

Fasten off (when you finish the 2nd leg do not fasten off, proceed to round 25)

*Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body

Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (42 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

Rounds 26-41: SC around (42 SC)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (36 SC)

Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (30 SC)

Round 44: SC around (30 SC)

Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rep around (24 SC)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (24 SC)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Head-

Note- We will be making the head from the top down, you’re beginning rounds will be the top of the head.

With light brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12 SC)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (24 SC)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rep around (54 SC)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54 SC)

Note: Here is where we will add the eyes before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 15 and 16, 8 stitches apart. Optional: Feel free to add eyelashes before securing your eyes, remember that we are working from the top of the head down so your eyelashes may seem upside down until we close the head.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (48 SC)

Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (42 SC)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (36 SC)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (30 SC)

Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (24 SC) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rep around (18 SC)

Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rep around (12 SC)

Round 26: INV DEC around (6 SC)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Stephanie

Welcome to part 3 of our CAL of Amy the Amigurumi Doll! This is where we make the arms and finish sewing her together!

If you're just joining in head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need! You can also find links Part 1 and 2 below!

If you have never done a CAL (crochet a long) before, you're in for some fun! Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. You can share your doll (or other crochet goodness you've made) and ask any questions you may have as we go!

Part 1 - Legs, body and skirt

Part 2- Head, hair and facial features!

Part 3- Arms and assembly! (below)

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee!

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

US Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only

Arms-

Make 2

*Lightly stuff the bottom of the arms only*

With skin color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC, rpt around (15)

Rounds 4-5: SC around (15)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC, rpt around (10)

Rounds 7-13: SC around (10) Change to shirt color

Rounds 14-23: SC around (10)

Stephanie

Welcome to part 2 of our CAL of Amy the Amigurumi Doll! I love seeing all of the different colors you have chosen!

If you're just joining in, head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need! You can also find Part 1 here!

Part 1 - Legs, body and skirt

Part 2- Head, hair and facial features! (below)

Part 3- Arms and assembly!

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee!

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only

Slowly stuff as you go. We want to stuff firmly by adding a little at a time, looking to stop just before the stitches start to stretch (to avoid gaps)!

The pattern calls for size 12mm plastic safety eyes, if you don't have these on hand or are making your doll for a little one under 3 I recommend making these instead!

Here we go!

Head-

With skin color

*Note: Cut a strand of yarn about 10 inches long, this will be used for the nose halfway through*

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54)

Rounds 10-19: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 16 and 17, 9 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go.)

Nose and Smile-

Using same color yarn, place the nose two rows beneath your eyes and 3 stitches in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your yarn through to create the nose). Pass your yarn through 4 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose).

Using your pink embroidery thread (or pink yarn) make a ‘V’ for the smile.

*Stuff your head as you go.

Round 20: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 21: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 22: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 23: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (30)

Stephanie

This sweet little doll was such a blast to make, I even made her to match my daughter, hence the similar outfits! She was over the moon to have a matching doll.

If you're just joining in head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need!

Below is Part 1, where we will be making the legs, body and skirt. The legs and body are made as one piece so no sewing is required for this part, woohoo!

Part 2 we will make the head, hair and facial features!

Part 3 we will make the arms and put her together!

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee!

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only

Slowly stuff as you go. Stuffing amigurumi gets easier the more you make. I under-stuffed in the beginning and then went straight into over-stuffing (*sigh*), but I kinda enjoy the learning process to be honest.

You will find the perfect balance. We want to stuff firmly by adding a little at a time, looking to stop just before the stitches start to stretch (to avoid gaps)!

Alright, lets grab our hook (3.5mm) and yarn!

Legs and Body-

Make 2- Starting with skin color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 8 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (16)

Rounds 3-30: SC around (16)

Fasten off (do not fasten off at the end of the 2nd leg, see below)

*Round 31 joins the legs together and starts the body *

Round 31: Chain 4 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 4 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and across each of the 4 chains (you will have SC on both sides of the chain 4 now) (40 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.

*Quick note- This can be the trickiest part if you haven't made a project with this technique. The chains are like a bridge connecting the legs together and we want to crochet around the entire piece to make it one. *

Rounds 32-36: SC around (40) Change to skirt color

Round 37: SC around (40)

Round 38: SC around in the blo (40)

Round 39: SC around (40) Change to shirt color

Rounds 40-48: SC around (40)

Round 49: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (32)

Round 50: SC around (32)

Round 51: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (24)

Change to skin color

Rounds 52-53: SC around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

Stephanie

Whether you are new to amigurumi or you've made you're fair share, this post is intended to provide helpful tips to learning the joyous techniques of the trade!

We will cover common language used in amigurumi patterns along with photos to help you learn the basics.

My goal here was to make this a resource that you can come to anytime you're met with something that seems unfamiliar in amigurumi. So, it's kind of lengthy, feel free to PIN this to your favorite board so you can refer back to it anytime!

I absolutely love questions! If I don't know the answer I enjoy researching it so I can learn it too! Joining the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook is a great way to reach out with your questions (or to share what you've made and your favorite go-to patterns!).

Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, meaning you won't join each round unless otherwise noted.

You will want to use stitch markers to mark either the first or last round as you go so you don't lose your place. They can be purchased or you can use a scrap piece of yarn, bobby pin or safety pin!

When you are stuffing be sure to stuff it firmly (you are working to find the point just before the stitches start to stretch). Over time your stuffing will settle and 'squish' down, stuffing firmly to begin with help it to stay firm!

If you are new to amigurumi and have any questions about what materials to use, read this post here to see my favorites!

This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Below are some of the common abbreviations and terms you are likely to come across in amigurumi patterns:

US Crochet Abbreviations -

MC - Magic Circle

SC - Single Crochet

SC INC - Single Crochet Increase (complete 2 single crochets into one stitch)

HDC - Half Double Crochet

HDC INC - Half Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 half double crochets into one stitch)

DC - Double Crochet

DC INC - Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 double crochets into one stitch)

INV DEC - Invisible Decrease

Rpt - Repeat

Sl St - Slip Stitch

Ch - Chain

Blo - Back loop only

Flo - Front loop only

YO - Yarn Over

Magic Circle-

A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.

1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.

2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.

3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1

4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop)
5. Pull your tail tight to close

Invisible Decrease-

This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease.

An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.

You've just made an invisible decrease!

Invisible Color Join -

When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly.

When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color.

Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook.

You now have your new color on your hook. I like to tie off my old color here if I'm not carrying it to change again, (like in Mia and Marshall the Frog).

As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a sc. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to sc into your slip stitch as a regular stitch.

Above I mentioned how you can carry colors when changing often. I used this in my frog patterns to create their striped outfits. Because, I was changing back and forth quite often that would create a LOT of loose ends.

Instead, I would drop the yarn, change to the new one and when it was time to change again I would drop and go back to the color I had. I continued this all the way up and then tied off when I was completely done. This saves time, which is quite nice!

Here's an example of the inside of Marshall the Frog, you can see where I carried the yarn and only had to tie off at the end!

Front and Back Loop Only-

This is usually used in the feet or bodies of amigurumi. In a foot it helps it to have a flat bottom to work up (like in this cow pattern).

I also like to use it to attach to later and make a skirt or ruffle along a dress (see Holly the Honey Bear for an example. The pattern uses back loop only on one row of the body, we later attach to it and make the ruffled part of her dress!)

When crocheting, the front loops are closest to you and the back loops are away from you (on the inside of the round)

Tension-

This section is short and sweet. You want a tight tension so that your stitches are close together, if they are loose they will have gaps that your stuffing will show through.

I like to have my hook help control my tension, we don't want your hands to hurt from trying to crochet really tightly.

I recommend starting with a 3.5mm (or one close in size if you don't have this on hand). If you feel your stitches are too loose go down a size (maybe try a 3mm or 2.75mm).

If your stitches are too tight (meaning you are having trouble getting your hook into the stitch) try a 4mm hook. Once you find your favorite hook size to use you will find yourself reaching for it every time!

These recommendations are based on using #4 worsted weight yarn. You can also use chunky yarn or cotton yarn, but because they have a different thickness you will want to adjust. Example, I use 4-4.5mm for chunky yarn and 3mm for cotton!

Grace and Yarn

Pattern

Materials-

Abbreviations: US terminology

Legs and Body-

Head-

Pattern

Materials-

Abbreviations-

Body-

Pattern

Materials:

Abbreviations: US terminology

Legs and Body-

Head-

US Abbreviations Used

Arms-

Abbreviations Used

Head-

Nose and Smile-

Abbreviations Used

Legs and Body-

US Crochet Abbreviations -

Magic Circle-

Invisible Decrease-

Invisible Color Join -

Front and Back Loop Only-

Tension-

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