*****UPDATE: This CAL is over but you can still find the free pattern for the Amy Doll here!*****

Welcome to part 3 of our CAL of Amy the Amigurumi Doll! This is where we make the arms and finish sewing her together!

If you're just joining in head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need! You can also find links Part 1 and 2 below!

If you have never done a CAL (crochet a long) before, you're in for some fun! Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. You can share your doll (or other crochet goodness you've made) and ask any questions you may have as we go! 

Part 1 - Legs, body and skirt

Part 2- Head, hair and facial features!

Part 3- Arms and assembly! (below)

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee! 

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

US Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only



*****UPDATE: This CAL is over but you can still find the free pattern for the Amy Doll here!*****

Welcome to part 2 of our CAL of Amy the Amigurumi Doll! I love seeing all of the different colors you have chosen!

If you're just joining in, head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need! You can also find Part 1 here!

If you have never done a CAL (crochet a long) before, you're in for some fun! Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. You can share your doll (or other crochet goodness you've made) and ask any questions you may have as we go! 

Part 1 - Legs, body and skirt

Part 2- Head, hair and facial features! (below)

Part 3- Arms and assembly! 

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee! 

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only

Slowly stuff as you go. We want to stuff firmly by adding a little at a time, looking to stop just before the stitches start to stretch (to avoid gaps)! 

The pattern calls for size 12mm plastic safety eyes, if you don't have these on hand or are making your doll for a little one under 3 I recommend making these instead!

Here we go!


Head

With skin color

*Note: Cut a strand of yarn about 10 inches long, this will be used for the nose halfway through*

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC


Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12) 

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18) 

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54)

Rounds 10-19: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 16 and 17, 9 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go.)



Nose and Smile 

Using same color yarn, place the nose two rows beneath your eyes and 3 stitches in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your yarn through to create the nose). Pass your yarn through 4 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose).

Using your pink embroidery thread (or pink yarn) make a ‘V’ for the smile.



*Stuff your head as you go. 


Round 20: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 21: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 22: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 23: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 24: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 25: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 26: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (12)

*Make sure the head is fully stuffed before closing

Round 27: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end

Hair Hat

With hair color

To make the hair we will make a hair hat or wig to sew on. This is very similar to the spine hat we made on the amigurumi Hedgehog!

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30)




*****UPDATE: This CAL is over but you can still find the free pattern for the Amy Doll here!***** 

This sweet little doll was such a blast to make, I even made her to match my daughter, hence the similar outfits! She was over the moon to have a matching doll.

If you're just joining in head over here to get all the details on the CAL and the materials you'll need! 

If you have never done a CAL (crochet a long) before, you're in for some fun! Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook. You can share your doll (or other crochet goodness you've made) and ask any questions you may have as we go! 

Below is Part 1, where we will be making the legs, body and skirt. The legs and body are made as one piece so no sewing is required for this part, woohoo!

Part 2 we will make the head, hair and facial features!

Part 3 we will make the arms and put her together!

If you prefer to work with a printable copy or would like to go at your own pace you can purchase an ad-free printable version in my Etsy or Ravelry shop for a low fee! 

This will remain a free pattern on the blog even after the CAL has ended so don't worry about it going anywhere! You can PIN this CAL to your favorite board to come back to anytime!

If you are new to amigurumi, I recommend reading through this post first for some great tips!

Abbreviations Used

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st – Slip stitch

Blo- Back loops only
Slowly stuff as you go. Stuffing amigurumi gets easier the more you make. I under-stuffed in the beginning and then went straight into over-stuffing (*sigh*), but I kinda enjoy the learning process to be honest. 




Whether you are new to amigurumi or you've made you're fair share, this post is intended to provide helpful tips to learning the joyous techniques of the trade!

We will cover common language used in amigurumi patterns along with photos to help you learn the basics.

My goal here was to make this a resource that you can come to anytime you're met with something that seems unfamiliar in amigurumi. So, it's kind of lengthy, feel free to PIN this to your favorite board so you can refer back to it anytime!

I absolutely love questions! If I don't know the answer I enjoy researching it so I can learn it too! Joining the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook is a great way to reach out with your questions (or to share what you've made and your favorite go-to patterns!). 

Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, meaning you won't join each round unless otherwise noted. 

You will want to use stitch markers to mark either the first or last round as you go so you don't lose your place. They can be purchased or you can use a scrap piece of yarn, bobby pin or safety pin! 

When you are stuffing be sure to stuff it firmly (you are working to find the point just before the stitches start to stretch). Over time your stuffing will settle and 'squish' down, stuffing firmly to begin with help it to stay firm!

If you are new to amigurumi and have any questions about what materials to use, read this post here to see my favorites! 

This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

Below are some of the common abbreviations and terms you are likely to come across in amigurumi patterns.

US Crochet Abbreviations

MC - Magic Circle

SC - Single Crochet

SC INC - Single Crochet Increase (complete 2 single crochets into one stitch)

HDC - Half Double Crochet

HDC INC - Half Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 half double crochets into one stitch)

DC - Double Crochet

DC INC - Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 double crochets into one stitch)

INV DEC - Invisible Decrease

Rep - Repeat

Sl St - Slip Stitch

Ch - Chain

Blo - Back loop only

Flo - Front loop only

YO - Yarn Over

Magic Circle

A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.

1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.

2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.

3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1

4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop)

5. Pull your tail tight to close





Invisible Decrease

This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease.

An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.

You've just made an invisible decrease!



Invisible Color Join 


When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly.

When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color.

Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook.



You now have your new color on your hook. I like to tie off my old color here if I'm not carrying it to change again, (like in Mia and Marshall the Frog).

As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a sc. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to sc into your slip stitch as a regular stitch.

Above I mentioned how you can carry colors when changing often. I used this in my frog patterns to create their striped outfits. Because, I was changing back and forth quite often that would create a LOT of loose ends.

Instead, I would drop the yarn, change to the new one and when it was time to change again I would drop and go back to the color I had. I continued this all the way up and then tied off when I was completely done. This saves time, which is quite nice!




*****UPDATE: This CAL is over but you can still find the free pattern for the Amy Doll here!*****

I'm super excited you are joining me on my first CAL (Crochet-A-Long)! This sweet doll was inspired by a bunny on my daughter's shirt. 

I loved the skirt shirt combo and every time I saw it I wanted to try and crochet it as a doll! My daughter was thrilled their outfits matched!

She measures about 14 inches from head to toe and is a great pattern for beginners! The legs and body are made as one piece making the pattern work up quickly!



Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook so you can share your WIP as you go and ask any questions you have along the way! 

I have used plastic safety eyes in this pattern but if you would prefer an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here

The pattern will be worked in the round and I highly recommend using stitch markers if you don't already. This is one material you don't necessarily have to purchase. A piece of scrap yarn, safety pin or bobby pin will work just fine!

PIN it here to save to your favorite board! I'll be updating each part below as they become available!

If you are new to amigurumi check out my tips page for a full tutorial on the most common language and techniques you will find in most patterns! 

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

This CAL is split up into three parts: 


Making the legs, body and skirt 



Making the head/hair and facial features 





Amigurumi is my favorite area of crochet to work in, hands down!

It can look overwhelming but it easier than it seems. Stay tuned for my Amigurumi Tips page coming soon where I will break down the most common areas of learning amigurumi.

To get started, you need the right tools and materials (most of which you probably already have). Be sure to check out my Tips to Learning Amigurumi page as well, I have compiled mini tutorials to cover the basics!

The questions get ask a lot, what is the best yarn to use for amigurumi? Best safety eyes? What makes the process easier?

I've compiled this post with all of my favorite items to make amigurumi, hoping to answer all of these questions. Some are essential and others are nice and handy to save us some time.

PIN it here to come back to later!



This post will cover yarn selections, hooks, needles, stuffing, safety eyes and fun gadgets that save us time! It contains my personal opinion from my experience as I learned amigurumi!

If you would prefer a sweet and simple list, feel free to scroll to the bottom. I've made it nice and organized! If you'd like more information on each item keep reading, I have you covered!

If you have questions, we have answers and are happy to help whether you are new to amigurumi or experienced and looking for some inspiration. Join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook and connect with others who have a passion for crochet! 

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!


Yarn Selection-

How important is the yarn you choose? It can vary, you want one that will hold up to hours of play time and not become too 'fuzzy'.

I love using Size 4 worsted weight yarn for my amigurumi but using a chunky or DK weight yarn creates a cute style as well (just be sure to adjust your hook size accordingly)! Here are my favorites below and my experience with them:

Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn (I use this the MOST) - I like it because it's durable, soft and comes in many colors!

Lion Brand Vanna's Choice - This yarn is a little bit thicker but still in the size 4 category and works really well for amigurumi. It holds up to long hours of play and is fairly soft. They also have a decent color selection, I used beige for my Berry Patch Bunnies pattern!

Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek - This is also a Hobby Lobby brand and I have just recently started using it. I love it! It holds true to it's name soft and sleek. The label also said that it was low-pill (we love that in amigurumi)! I used it for the yellow duck in my Amigurumi Duck pattern. I love how it works up, the only downside is it doesn't come in a wide variety of colors.

Red Heart Super Soft - This yarn is soft as it's name entails. While it isn't my favorite yarn to use (makes my nose itch when I use it, I know so weird but being honest here), it can be more cost effective as far as regular price goes and is easily available at most stores.

Caron Simply Soft - Beautiful assortment of colors here and cost is good (especially with coupons). In my experience it becomes 'fuzzy' a little bit faster than the other yarns listed above, so I don't use it as often. It has a wonderful soft and silky feel to it as you crochet making it easy to work with.

I Love This Cotton Yarn - Some prefer to use cotton when making amigurumi. For those with allergies or skin sensitivity sometimes this can be a better match. This is my favorite cotton yarn to use. It's soft and comes in great colors! Being a thinner yarn compared to others on this list I would go down a hook size so that your amigurumi projects stay nice and tight.

Designing a hedgehog has been high on my list! They are adorable, spunky and I am seeing them everywhere! 

I have combined these with one of my favorite outfits as a kid. Overalls! Pocket and all! I was inspired by the suspenders from the Berry Patch Bunny!

These hedgehogs were purposely made about the same size as my other forest animals, so they can be played with together as friends or displayed nicely at a craft fair!

If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips and materials page to help get you started!

With each pattern I try to keep in mind how they will be played with, knowing that kids (mainly mine) are rough with their toys! 

We spend a lot of time and put a lot of love into our creations. With that in mind, I have frogged many times so that you won't have to.

The legs and body are made as one piece. The head is done separately, but I feel it's worth the extra item to sew on. 

Having the head separate guarantees the stuffing will stay there and not sink down into the neck. Stuffing the neck firmly as you sew it on will also add to its sturdiness.

 I like to use plastic safety eyes for the majority of my amigurumi projects but for those times that you would prefer an alternative I have you covered with these crochet thread eyes


Pattern-
  • PIN this pattern to save for later
  • If you prefer to work with a printable PDF, an ad-free version is available for a low fee in my Etsy or Ravelry shop

This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn!

If you have't already, be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook, a growing community where you can share your work and ask any questions you may have in the process! I'll also keep you updated on new patterns, tutorials and giveaways! 


You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you!


Materials:

  • Size 4 worsted weight yarn 
    • 25g choice color for overalls 
    • 15g beige 
    • Small amount of: 
  • 10.5 or 11mm  safety eyes 
  • 3.5 mm and 5 mm crochet hook 
  • Scissors 
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stuffing (Poly-Fil and Morning Glory are my top favorites!)
  • Stitch markers (optional) 

Abbreviations: US terminology

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

DC INC- Double crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC- Half double crochet

HDC INC- Half double crochet increase

Sl st- Slip stitch

CH- Chain

Rpt- Repeat



These hedgehogs measures about 14 inches from spines to feet! 

*Slowly stuff as you go, you want it to be firm but not stretched. You will be working in the round, I like using a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. 

*You will use the 3.5 mm hook for all parts with exception of the 'Spine hat', which will use the 5 mm*


Legs and Body-

Make 2: Using brown

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch, rpt around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch, rpt around (30)

Round 6: SC around in the back loops only (30)

Rounds 7-8: SC around (30)

Round 9: SC in the first 9 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 9 stitches (24)

Round 10: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 stitches (18) Change to color for overalls

Rounds 11-24: SC around (18)

Fasten off (do not fasten off at the end of the 2nd leg, see below) 

(At the end of Round 24 on the 2nd leg, complete a SC in each of the next 6 stitches (this will line up your legs to be straight when we join. Round 25 joins the legs together and starts the body)

Round 25: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC (make sure both of your feet are facing the same direction), SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains (you will have SC on both sides of the 3 chains now) (42 SC) 


This completes your join and is where your next round will start.




Rounds 26-40: SC around (42) Change to shirt color

Round 41: SC around (42)

Round 42: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (36)

Round 43: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (30)

Round 44: SC around (30) Change to beige

Round 45: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (24)

Rounds 46-47: SC around (24)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing 

Head- 

With beige

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)

Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54)

Rounds 10-18: SC around (54)

Note: Here is where we will add the eyes before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 16 and 17, 7 stitches apart. 


(Optional: Sew on eyelashes before fastening the back of your eyes)





*Stuff your head firmly as you go.

Round 19: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (48)

Round 20: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (42)

Round 21: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (36)

Round 22: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (30)

Round 23: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (24) *Continue to stuff the head firmly

Round 24: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (18)

Round 25: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (12)

Round 26: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end 

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