Welcome to Part 1 of our Spring CAL (crochet-a-long)! I'm so excited you're here and joining in to make these sweet Mini Berry Patch Bunnies!

Today we will make the legs, body and head. The legs will be made separately and then joined together to make the body and head. By the time we're done it will all be one piece. No sewing required for Part 1, yes!

If you are just learning about the CAL head over here to find out all the details, it's never too late to join in. Each part will remain free here on the blog so you can crochet at any pace.

Be sure to share your photos in the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook, we'd love to see your mini bunnies! This is also a great place to ask any questions you have along the way!

Pattern

PIN Part 1 to your crochet board here!

You can also find the full pattern (an ad-free PDF version) in my Etsy and Ravelry shop!

Some of you have shared that this will be your first CAL, yay! If you have any questions feel free to share them in the group or send me a message. I hope you enjoy making your own mini bunny!

If amigurumi is new to you, I have a Tips to Learning Amigurumi page that I think will come in handy. I've also brought over some of the main tips below as a refresher if needed!

If you're ready for Part 1 now, feel free to scroll down. Otherwise, keep reading and I'll go through the materials and how to get started with a magic circle and color changes!

This CAL will be split into 2 parts:

Part 1 - April 5 - Legs, Body and Head (this post here!)

Part 2 - April 8 - Ears, Arms and Straps

Don't want to miss any new patterns? Sign-up for my newsletter and I will send an email for each part of the CAL plus keep you updated when new patterns are released!

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You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern!

• Size 4 worsted weight yarn (25g of main body color, 25g overall color, small amount for shirt and bow)
• 3.5 mm crochet hook (Clover Amours are my all time favorites for comfort!)
• 9mm safety eyes
• Black crochet/embroidery thread for eyelashes, nose and mouth
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle (bent tips work best for amigurumi!)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers (a piece of scrap yarn can do the trick!)

Abbreviations (US terminology)

MC- Magic circle

SC- Single crochet

SC INC- Single crochet increase

INV DEC- Invisible decrease

HDC – Half double crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)


Right Handed Tutorial


Left Handed Tutorial

(Below is a mini tutorial for making a magic circle, invisible decrease and invisible color join. Please note the photos are for reference and were taken from previous projects, the concept will be used for our CAL.)


Magic Circle

A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi.

1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below.

2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail.

3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1.

4. You're magic circle is complete and ready to begin as pattern instructs (ex: if round says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop).

5. Pull your tail tight to close.






Invisible Decrease

This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease.

An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the next stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook.

You're invisible decrease is done!

Invisible Color Join

When changing colors it can give a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method will help the colors change more smoothly!

When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color.

Insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook.

You now have your new color on your hook, I like to tie off my old color here.

As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a SC. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to SC into your slip stitch just as you would a regular stitch.

Legs and Body-

Legs - Make 2 – Starting with body color

Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC

Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)

Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 5: SC around in the back loops only (24)

Round 6: SC around (24)

Round 7: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 6 sts (18)

Round 8: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC 6 times, SC in the last 3 sts (12)

Change to overall color

Rounds 9-16: SC around (12)

Fasten off on the first leg only. When you finish the 2nd leg, make a SC into each of the next 5 stitches (do not fasten off). This will line up your working yarn to be in the center of the leg for our join as well as ensuring both feet will be facing forward.





Round 17: Chain 3 and attach to the first leg with a SC (make sure that both feet are facing forward). SC in the remaining sts around the leg. When you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 3 chains, SC in the remaining sts of the next leg and SC across each of the 3 chains again. You will have crocheted on each side of the chain. (30 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start.





Rounds 18-23 SC around (30)

Change to shirt color

Round 24: SC around in the back loop only (30)

Rounds 25-27: SC around (30)

Round 28: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 29: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Change to body color

Round 30: SC around (18)

Round 31: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 32: SC around (12)

(Here is where we will start the head.)

Round 33: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 34: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 35: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 36: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 37: SC in the first 11 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (39)

Rounds 38-42: SC around (39)


NOTE: Here is where we will attach the facial features. Place the safety eyes 5 stitches apart between rounds 40 and 41. (For the girl version, I recommend sewing on the eyelashes before securing your safety eyes).

Nose/Mouth: Using embroidery thread place the nose centered towards the bottom row of your eyes, 1 stitch in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your thread through to create the nose). Pass your thread through 5-6 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose). Use your thread to make a straight line down 2 rows and then a ‘V’ for the smile.





Round 43: SC in the first 11 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 44: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 45: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

*Continue to stuff the head and neck firmly to avoid a wobbly head*

Round 46: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 47: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)

Round 48: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.